Clocked Out: Away to Santa Fe
Nine places to check out in and around the Land of Enchantment's artisan capital — which is just a two-hour flight from Long Beach.
As a belated birthday present to myself last week, I hopped on a plane from Long Beach Airport to Albuquerque and then a train to Santa Fe. It sounds complicated, but it really wasn't.
That's because New Mexico actually has a (decent) public transportation system — that train ride was only $9 and a shuttle to and from the airport was free. My Southwest flight out of LGB was $280.
I was there to visit one of my oldest and dearest friends for her birthday. My four-day trip was so seamless, refreshing, and flavored that I found myself feeling a bit sad watching the town fade away on my train ride back to Albuquerque, blasting this song by The Partridge Family in my headphones — obviously.
A quick disclaimer: There simply wasn't enough time (or money) to experience a ton, but I'll share where I did go. From a hike through the mountainous woods to a sultry hotel bar to two indie bookstores to a natural hot springs resort that opened in 1868 — get ready for uhhh, some enchantment!
Iconik Coffee Roasters
I didn't have time to determine whether this cafe is truly "iconic" of Santa Fe, but it is a remote worker's dream. Cozy, arty, chandeliers, Earth tones, rad Godzilla-themed shirts — not to mention tasty coffee and other caffeinated bevs — if I were a local, I would scribble this silly little column there every week.
I visited the location in the hip Lena Street area, but the cafe has two other locations in Santa Fe that you can find here.
The Ark Bookstore
Do not, I repeat, do not go here if you are poor but you are into tarot cards, witchy items, meditation, dragon mugs, minerals/crystals, books about holistic health, magick, alchemy, butterfly garlands, wellness things, whimsical ambiance, etc.
To hell with it, you should board The Ark anyway. I sure did and brought back some very cool illustrations drawn from Catholic lore, a poetry book, a pink sun-catching crystal thing to hang by my window and a $3 used hardcover book about runes from the 1980s.
I could've spent all day in there perusing books about Buddhism, dreams, psychology and poetry. Whether you're a weirdo like me or you aren't, it's well worth popping your head in.
133 Romero St. Santa Fe, NM
Beastly Books
In case you haven't noticed, I'm a huge nerd. And if you are, too, or at least you like Game of Thrones or House of the Dragon, you will want to wander into George R.R. Martin's indie bookstore in the Railyard District. Inside, Martin even has signed copies of his works.
If you happen to stumble in during the last week of the month, you might just catch the Beastly Book Club, which is hosted by my friend, Gianna.
418 Montezuma Ave., Santa Fe, NM
Saturday Farmer's Market
Every Saturday from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., Santa Fe's farmers market draws probably more than 100 vendors that you will want at least an hour to check out. If you're just visiting, you will be tempted by fresh desert flowers and caléndula garlands. Since you probably won't be able to get those home safely, find local tea, herbs, chile powders/flakes, jarred hatch green chile, embroidered goods, art and other trinkets that won't spoil.
As Above So Below
It's time for a drink. While you're in the Railyard District (after leaving Farmer's Market or Beastly), you might stumble into this mystical watering hole and distillery, which invites you to come into its "altar" to try this spectrum of spirits: Astrologist (whiskey), Ritual (vodka), Sigil (gin), Aradia (aperitivo) and Absinthe Verte. Admittedly, I wasn't able to try anything there since I was merely popping my head in, but this distillery is on my must-try list for when I return. Just based on its apothecaric and ethereal vibe, velvet couches and cozy cocktail list, I know I'd be a regular here.
545 Camino de la Familia, Santa Fe, NM
La Reina at El Rey Court
Okay so here is where I did have a drink or three, unclear. This Mezcal-focused bar is like going to have a drink in your rich New Mexican friend's living room. I don't have any rich New Mexican friends but if I did this is how their home would look.
This place is intimate. Sexy. Low-lit. It's where "fast lives slow down" and where you would bring a hawt date, or so I'm told. Also, if you're a local, on Thursdays they offer discounts to those who have a New Mexico ID. If not, the prices really aren't that crazy (especially if you live in Long Beach). I kept it simple with the Mezcalita: rey campero espadín, lime orange liquer and agave.
862 Cerrillos Road, Santa Fe, NM
La Choza
Ummmm welcome to "the local's choice for chile!" I can't vouch for the local's choice but I can tell you I made my Chile Relleno Plate disappear faster than my second cocktail. It was two roasted green chiles stuffed with Monterey jack cheese, coated in house batter, fried to a golden brown then covered with red or green (I picked green) chile.
It's currently monsoon season in New Mexico, so there were multiple moments during this trip in which a sunny summer day turned into a tropical torrential downpour. I am absolutely not complaining about this, it merely added to the sort of magical-mystical feeling that hangs over Santa Fe. As soon as we arrived at La Choza, the rain came and It. Dumped.
And like any beloved eatery, especially one that's remained a Southwestern staple since 1983, the wait was over an hour for a table last Saturday night. So, we took shelter from the rain with our spicy little margaritas beneath a bit of a shoddy overhang outside the restaurant. But hey, the faster you slurp that Choza Burn ($10.50!) of theirs and start drunk yapping, the shorter the wait becomes. Be warned, they pour 'em strong.
905 Alarid St., Santa Fe, NM
Ojo Caliente Spa
Now we turn to the nature portion of our Santa Fe adventure (this itinerary is obviously out of order).
The first full day in New Mexico actually wasn't spent in Santa Fe but between it and Taos at one of the country's oldest health spas. So, if you're looking to luxuriate, exfoliate and rejuvenate (heh), this must be the place. And boy did I leave floating. This is one of the country's oldest health spas. Established in 1868, this is apparently one of the few spas around the world that have tubs with these four different "healing" minerals: arsenic, lithia, soda and iron.
Monday through Friday, day passes are only $45 per person. On weekends, they're $65, but since I arrived with locals, the staff was kind enough to offer yours truly a discount.
If you don't want to trek all the way out here (about an hour's drive from the city), you can also visit their Santa Fe location.
A quick note: This isn't exactly... a party destination and voices must be kept to a whisper at all times, so maybe save this one for a zen day. Cheers and don't forget to bring a book or a journal.
50 Los Banos Dr., Ojo Caliente, NM
Hyde Memorial State Park / Rio en Medio Trail
If you're the hiking sort, or the scenic driving sort, you'll want to hop on the NM-475 through Hyde Memorial State Park up to Ski Santa Fe.
If you're up for a hike through a mountainous pine forest with towering aspen trees and a meadow fit for a faerie, check out Rio en Medio trail, where you'll be walking downhill initially beside a creek and lots of little waterfalls.
But here’s your official warning: check the damn forecast before you go (although it isn’t the most reliable during the summer). Gianna, Amora and I got caught in a thunderous lightning hailstorm on our way out of the woods, so that was a bit perilous. But what is a true adventure without a bit of ~ danger ~?
The best months to hike around the mountains in Santa Fe are October through May.
PRO TIP
If you do happen to fly into Albuquerque and opt to take that lovely $9 train, the Rail Runner, to Santa Fe, do yourself a favor and walk over to Zendo Coffee, located just up the street from the Downtown Albuquerque Rail Runner Station.
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